Tear Drop on the Face of Eternity – The Taj Mahal


It’s a time of disaster in the camp tonight.  At sundown the name from the royal tent had gone out for the surgeon and the royal bodyguard encamped adjoining to the imperial enclosure are celebration to the calls for warm water and extra gentle.  A camel, led by a wizened man in a loin fabric, arrives, piled excessive with brush and firewood, and shortly the sparks carry into the inky night time and darkish shadows forged themselves towards the canvas of the enclosure.  Someplace in the desert darkness a wolf howls, emotionless to the military encamped close by and the drama unfolding at its centre. A girl’s agonised cries reduce via the regular murmur of a military of voices, and the crackle of fires and the occasional whicker of a stressed cavalry horse.  As the hours put on on the cries come extra usually and the whole encampment is in thrall to the occasions unfolding in the emperor’s tent. Glittering Orion wheels impassively throughout the sky, descending now in the direction of the western horizon, his inexorable descent marking the passing of the hours.  Ears prick as much as the first lusty wails of a new child little one, inflicting the sentries to stir and minutes later the surgeon seems, silhouetted towards the ruddy gentle of the fires in the imperial enclosure, his tunic bloodied and the weariness set deep in his sunken eyes.  A fast dialog with the sentry and the phrase spreads like wildfire via the encamped military – the Queen is lifeless.  Mumtaz Mahal, the Jewel of the Palace, and most beloved of the Moghul Emperor: confidant, spouse, mom and companion, has crossed over to eternity.  She was carrying the 14th little one of Emperor Shah Jahan and has been his fixed companion, even in the theatre of battle – however this marketing campaign towards the Lodi princes of the Deccan to safe the southwestern reaches of the empire is to be her final.  Moghul energy in India is at its zenith, the first conquests begun by Emperor Babur in 1535 and now being consolidated by his nice nice grandson.  In the chilly gray gentle of daybreak a sorrowing emperor points the order to interrupt camp and start the lengthy march northeast to Agra and the Moghul heartland, ideas of battle forgotten.  Legend has it that on her deathbed Mumtaz’s final request to her husband was to vow her a monument to their love – little did she realise to what ends her husband would go to satisfy that promise.


The Taj Mahal is the success of that promise and is the world’s best monument to like, standing in all its splendour on the banks of the Yamuna River.  ‘A teardrop on the face of eternity’ is how Rabindrath Tagore, India’s Nobel laureate described it.  A diminutive sarcophagus lies in the centre of the edifice – all there’s to remind us that that is before everything the closing resting place of a queen.  Standing in the cool half-gentle of the inside of the mausoleum, one is definitely distracted by the grandiosity of the surrounding edifice.  For 3 and half centuries the beautiful marble lattice work, which types the ethereal partitions of the tomb, has allowed the mud-laden scorching blasts of summer season and the scented breath of the monsoon to caress the chilly stone of the grave that lies therein.  My footsteps echo off the chilly marble ground and whisper eerily round the lofty dome above, and in so doing I really feel a tear in the material of time – as the ghostly echoes whisper insistently from the darkish void above, so too did they whisper of those that trod this very ground three and half centuries in the past.


This was my second journey to Agra to see the splendours of the Taj.  All in all, issues have gotten a bit prosperous and organised in India since my first go to in the early 1990’s; helped alongside of course by a little bit extra affluence and elevated price range from my aspect too.  Shunning the pleasures of a gradual, grubby Indian commuter practice, with India piling on and off in wonderful bedlam, we took the quick, air-conditioned, clear and comfy affair from Delhi to Agra, which set us down in two hours at the Cantonment station.  It wasn’t nevertheless half as a lot enjoyable as the 5 hour hob-nob with the locals which I loved the first time spherical.  In fact Agra is the most touristy city in India and touts and rip-off artists swarm round any new arrival like flies round the proverbial, however do not let that put you off – agency dealing with and arduous bargaining will get you a taxi journey to city and a clear room.  We dumped our packs and lay on our beds as the temperatures outdoors climbed to 45 levels and deliberate our itinerary for the subsequent three days.  Travelling in India between April and August shouldn’t be for the faint hearted – daytime temperatures are homicide and the mosquitoes equally so.  Irrespective of which season you go to, do your self a favour and pound on these huge wood doorways to the Taj’s entrance pavilion in the daybreak and demand entrance.  The early morning coolth is bliss earlier than the solar rains down its mighty hammer blows on the again of your head, and early arrival will get you entrance row seats to the spectacle of the morning rays turning the dome into an ethereal glow that’s nearly unimaginable to explain.  And the added bonus is that you may be manner forward of the crowds, which lets you stand alone in the centre of the mausoleum and hearken to the whispers of eternity echo from the dome above.


From 1631 to 1648 architects, engineers, masons, artists and a military of labourers toiled to construct the Taj.  Sixty one metres excessive and 25 metres throughout, the dome towers above the huge flatness that are the Indian plains.  Each part of the central edifice is clad in shimmering white marble hewn from the quarries of Nagaur, 550 km distant.  The mausoleum itself stands inside a formally laid out, walled backyard which is accessed via a pavilion at the southern finish.  From this pavilion one seems to be northwards in the direction of the dome, which is our acquainted vista of the Taj and maybe the most photographed view in the world.  Truth and fiction are intertwined; as solely they’re ready on this land of delusion and thriller, and legend has it that the arms of the artisans had been chopped off as soon as the work was full in order that by no means once more may one other Taj Mahal be constructed.  One other is that Shah Jahan deliberate a black Taj Mahal on the reverse financial institution of river as his personal mausoleum – a mirror picture of the monument to his spouse.  The place legend ends and fact begins is open to debate, however what is understood is that Shah Jahan was deposed by his son Aurangzeb, who incarcerated him in the Agra Fort roughly 5 km upstream, the place solely the view of the Taj and his recollections accompanied him to his demise.  There’s a lot unhappiness surrounding the Taj, not all of which is related to the Mumtaz and Shah Jahan. Many tears should have been shed by the moms and widows of those that died constructing the monument.  And die they definitely did, for to haul the big blocks of marble and crimson sandstone the 550 kilometres from the Makrana quarries, after which to pull them up ramps and scaffolding would have precipitated its fair proportion of casualties, to not point out those that succumbed to warmth and illness over the 21 12 months development interval.  Then there have been the taxes that had been levied to pay for the development work which might have positioned an extra burden on the peasantry.  The Taj can thus be construed as not solely a memorial to the queen of an empire however to those that toiled to convey it to being.  India’s more moderen Nobel laureate, V.S. Naipaul, described the Taj as “so wasteful, so decadent and in the finish so merciless that it’s painful to be there for very lengthy.  That is an extravagance that speaks of the blood of the individuals.”  Controversial however undoubtedly stunning, it has stood impassively for over three and a half centuries towards the backdrop of fading empires, wars, famines, floods and illness.  The Taj is the excessive tide mark in an usually nondescript sea of human endeavour and maybe that was Shah Jahan’s genius; to focus the efforts of unusual women and men to construct a monument not solely to Mumtaz, however to themselves, and in so doing reaching some modicum of immortality.


So, do your self a favour and purchase your self an air ticket to Delhi, take a gradual practice to Agra after which take an excellent slower stroll via the sacred stillness of the tomb, and marvel at the surprise of all of it.  However I need to add a warning although – India will seduce you to the extent that your smash will probably be full – it is going to grow to be a life-lengthy love affair, driving you to distraction as solely an affair of the coronary heart can.

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